The Official Secret On How To Identify Parasites And Coccidia

OK OK, It is no secret. But there are a lot of us, most of us I would say, that don’t know how to identify parasites or coccidia in our chickens, ducks, rabbits, and even dogs unless we go to a veterinarian. This is all great if you have the ability to take your animals to see a vet, But when it comes to animals like backyard chickens or ducks there is a huge population of people who don’t have a veterinarian that lives by them that treats these animals. So learning how to identify parasites and coccidia can save an animal’s life. This skill also will help your animal not be treated for something they don’t have.

Before anything, I always encourage people to find a veterinarian near you to treat your animal. I great place to start is The American Board of Veterinary Practitioners (ABVP). If you are in a pickle though then this post is for you.

So before we begin I would like to say – I am all about doing things as close to natural as possible. Having good clean coops and pens and practicing good husbandry goes a long way. But sometimes things go array. We have to make choices on how to treat the animals, which means using medicine or trying to find a natural path. This is a personal choice each of us has to make and learning all you can can help you make the best choices in these times is crucial.

Regardless of your path – knowing what you’re up against is going to help you decide what steps need to come next to care for your animal.

The Secret

So to put it simply – we are going to collect a sample of feces (poop) and look at it under the microscope.

This test is called a Fecal Float Test. And yes, using a microscope is the best way to identify what is really going on. It may sound gross but it is totally necessary. And with the right tools in place, you can get this done easily and with no mess.

Supplies Needed

Before I jump into the instructions I just want to say a good microscope is key – but it does not have to be the biggest most expensive one out there. I found mine on Amazon for a decent price. You can check Facebook’s Marketplace or Craigslist too. Just be sure the magnification is at least 100X minimum. 400X is better though. Good brands for a lower-end microscope are Amscope and Omax. Jump on Amazon to look at reviews and ratings to be sure you are getting one that ranks higher than average.

Step 1 – Collect Fecal Matter

When you deal with fecal matter you need to be sure to use gloves. Although most things our animals have won’t affect us there are a few zoonotic diseases and parasites which can be transferred. Besides that who wants stinky poop on their hands? So glove up.

This test can be done with all animals, large and small. You will find their poop and collect it. You want fresh poop. So following them around to collect it can be necessary.

That is unless you have a chicken. Sixty percent of their pooping is done at night. So head out to the coop early in the morning to collect their most recent droppings from the night before. It makes things so much easier!

There are several ways to collect the fecal matter. Using what you have like a plastic spoon and a ziplock bag or a fecal loop and a small disposable cup is one way. The easiest way I have found though is with Fecal Collection Tubes. I pull out the green insert and use the end to scoop a sample and simply slip it back into the tube. This collects the sample in the tube and prepares it for the next step.

You don’t need much. About 1/4 a teaspoon is way more than enough.

Step 2 – Setting up your work area

Gather all your supplies and bring them to a flat work surface that can be left untouched for a bit while you let the sample sit. I like to cover my tabletop with parchment paper, wax paper, newspaper, or anything that just makes cleaning up easier in case something gets dropped or spilled.

Step 3 – Diluting and Breaking up the Sample

Your sample needs to go into a slender tube. Something small enough to hold the cover slip. Once your sample is collected, dilute it and break up any chunks. If you have it in the Fecal Collection Tube pour in some Sodium Nitrate Solution, fill it halfway, and swirl around the green insert vigorously until the fecal matter is broken up completely.

Using a fecal loop or any other stirring object, stir until you achieve the same results.

If you are using something other than the Fecal Collection Tube you may need to clean out the large debris from the sample. This is usually common in large animals with hay particles and such. To do this take a thin piece of gauze, place it on top of another tube, create a small dent in the gauze going into the tube to catch the debris, and pour the sample through the gauze.

If you are using the fecal Collection Tube it already separates the debris in the sample and keeps it from coming up.

Step 4 – Fill your tube with Sodium Nitrate

Place your tube on a flat surface and fill it with the Sodium Nitrate to the very top of the tube. You are then going to create what is called an Inverted Meniscus. This is where the liquid bulges up looking like it is about to spill over but doesn’t.

Step 5 – Place your coverslip on top

Take your coverslip, being sure to not touch the surface with your fingers, and carefully lay it on top of the Fecal Collection Tube or tube of your choice and let it sit for 15 minutes.

So you know how oil and water don’t mix? The same thing is pretty much happening in the tube. The debris is heavy and will sink to the bottom of the tube. However, the eggs are lighter than the sodium nitrate and will float to the surface. They will adhere to the coverslip which is the magic that allows you to collect any parasite eggs to see under the microscope.

Step 6 – Identify Parasites And Coccidia

After 15 min have your microscope ready and pull out a clean Microscope Slide. Be sure not to touch the surface to keep it clean. Lift your coverslip from the tube, keep it level, and try to not let the liquid drip off. Carefully place it on top of the microscope slide and set it on your microscope’s table.

When looking under your microscope you will start to see the eggs at about 100X. You will be looking for oval shapes. To best identify eggs and types you should magnify them to 400x.

Identifying what you are seeing…

Now that you have learned how to collect and view a specimen under the microscope the next step will be to figure out how to identify what you are looking at.

One easy way to do this is to snap a picture of it and contact a bird rescue organization to see if you can send them a photo. Another would be to reach out to local vets and ask if even if they don’t treat chickens then would they would be willing to look at your images or direct you to a person that could help. A third way would be to find chicken groups on social media – like Facebook to see if others have gone before you. And if all else doesn’t work here are some photos and links to help you identify what you are looking at.

Photo of Eggs/oocysts of gastrointestinal parasites from the Springer Link Website

Photo from the University of New Hampshire’s Website

Parasite eggs and coccidia are not only shaped differently but vary in size. Gapeworm, Roundworm, Cecal Worm, Tapeworm, Threadworm, and Coccidia are the most common parasites you will find.

Gapeworms

Gapeworms are horrible little parasites that infect poultry leaving them gasping and fighting to breathe. They live in the trachea feeding on the blood of the bird. They can cause both irritation and obstruction. The biggest sign besides gasping is gaping. This is where they stretch their neck and shake their head trying to dislodge the worms.

Symptoms: gaping, coughing, open-mouthed breathing, panting, gasping, wheezing

Roundworm (Nematodes)

These are common worms seen in poultry and waterfowl. There are three species that affect poultry. They are Large Roundworms, Small Roundworms, and Cecal Worms. Symptoms of a roundworm infestation are weight loss, diarrhea, and lethargy.

Large Roundworm (Ascarids Galli)

These worms are very damaging to your flock. They can go unnoticed until a severe infestation many times. Roundworms will reduce the nutrients your chickens can absorb, block their intestines, and can cause death. They also make the bird more prone to diseases. These worms are easily seen but are often missed because if they are in fecal matter the chickens will usually eat it quickly. Testing is important.

Symptoms: weight loss, reduced appetite, diarrhea, pale comb, reduced egg production, ruffled feathers, droopiness, worms in droppings, worms inside eggs

Small Roundworm

Turkeys and game birds are most affected by this type of roundworm. One species lives in the crop and esophagus and causes inflammation of the mucus membranes. Other species live in the lower intestinal tract and cause erosion of the intestinal lining. They can cause reduced egg production, small birds, reduced fertility, and in severe cases death.

Symptoms: weight loss, diarrhea, reduced egg production, pale comb, ruffled feathers, listlessness, worms in droppings

Cecal Worm (Heterakis Gallinarum)

These parasites grow in the ceca where the small and large intestines meet. Usually, cecal worms don’t do damage to a chicken. But they carry Histomonas Melegridis. It is a protozoan parasite that affects turkeys causing histomoniasis. They can still impact your chicken’s health and should be dealt with.

Symptoms: ruffled feathers, weight loss, eating a lot, droopiness

Tapeworm

There are several species of tapeworms to be found. They range from small ones you can not see without a microscope to large ones. They shed millions of eggs in a lifetime and can easily spread in your flock. Eggs drop and are eaten by ants, beetles, termites, worms, slugs, earthworms, and flies. Your chicken eats the host, and the tapeworm finishes its lifecycle by attaching itself to different digestive tract sections.

Symptoms: weight loss, lethargy, rice-like grains in droppings, reduced egg production, pale comb, diarrhea

Threadworm (Capillary Worms)

These worms are a small internal parasite that is closely related to intestinal worms. They have a very small threadlike appearance. You will find them in the small intestine, crop, and esophagus. They lower your bird’s immune system leaving them more apt to disease.

Symptoms: weight loss, pale combs, droopiness, diarrhea, anemia, and decreased egg production.

Coccidiosis

Coccidiosis is a common parasite found in poultry. It can also be fatal if not treated quickly. It damages the intestinal tract and prevents the bird from absorbing nutrients. There is a very specific hunched-over with ruffled feathers look a bird gets when it has coccidia. You will most likely also see blood in their droppings. Coccidia is found in soil. Birds will build a tolerance to the parasite over time. But if a bird’s immune system goes down it can become affected again. An overload in one bird can compromise the whole flock.

Symptoms: sitting hunched over with ruffled feathers, slow growth, loose watery bloody stool, low body temperature, listlessness

Treatment for Chickens: 9.5 ml of CORID (amprolium 9.6% solution) per gallon of water and treat the entire flock for 7 days. (Be sure to keep treated water away from ducks)

Other Resources:

As a sidenote – remember that keeping your coop fresh and clean will help minimize problems with your flock. Read my tips with ways to keep a Smell Free Coop where I also go over ways to help battle mites.

If you have any questions please don’t hesitate to comment below asking a question. Owning animals is amazing and I have loved learning all I have. But I wouldn’t know as much as I do if it wasn’t for people who work with animals sharing their knowledge with me.